A rich, concentrated 2014, Laurent’s 2014 Gigondas les Hauts de Montmirail (70% Grenache and the rest Syrah and Mourvèdre, aged in 50% new barrels) has the fresh, streamlined style of the vintage, yet offers beautiful notes of black fruits, roasted herbs and licorice in its balanced, pure, modern-style profile. It’s good today, but this will be a longer lived 2014 and see its 10th birthday in fine form.