Still youthful and lively, with ample blackberry, currant, spice and peppered meats, the 2004 Gigondas Les Hauts de Montmirail is the top wine of the estate and is made from 50% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 20% Mourvedre that was aged in 70% new French oak and 30% in tank. Classically styled on the palate, with medium-bodied richness and notable tannin, it’s a tad burly and rustic, yet is an impressive Gigondas that will see its 20th birthday in good form.

The top cuvee, the 2004 Gigondas Les Hauts de Montmirail (which is brought up in small barrels), exhibits a healthy dark ruby/purple hue followed by aromas of black cherries, licorice, and flowers. Medium-bodied with raspy tannin as well as surprisingly tart acidity, it should last for 4-6 years.Imported by New Castle Imports, Myrtle Beach, SC; tel. (843) 448-9463

A controversial wine I’m sure, as I couldn’t even make my mind up about it. Tasted from three separate bottles, on one occasion it was positively stunning and would have rated 94 points—it was filled with explosive stone fruit notes, ranging from peach and apricot to plum and cherry; lush but not unstructured. Unfortunately, the two other bottles showed some volatility and more subdued fruit, so I’ve tempered my rating to reflect that.——J.C.(11/15/2006)—— 90