Even better than the traditional cuvee, and one of the most concentrated efforts in the vintage, the 2006 Gigondas Les Hauts de Montmirail checks in as a blend of 50% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 20% Mourvèdre, all of which was aged mostly in new barrels (30% was in tank). Chocolate, smoked herbs, roasted meats and licorice all flow beautifully to a rich, full-bodied, thrillingly textured Gigondas that stays fresh, lively and balanced. I can’t say it’s a classic Gigondas, but it’s a stunning wine nevertheless. I like it now, but it should cruise for another 5-7 years.

More new oak is noticeable in the 2006 Gigondas Les Hauts de Montmirail, but that component is compensated for by extravagant layers of black cherry and blackberry fruit. Incense, graphite, pepper, and plum characteristics are also present in this full-bodied, powerful 2006, the most concentrated Gigondas of the vintage. It should evolve for 10-15 years. One of the more popular estates in Gigondas, Domaine Brusset has been represented in the United States for decades. They offer two cuvees. Brusset's two 2006s are among the finest wines of the vintage in Gigondas.Importers: Simon N Cellars, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 977-4476; Southern Wine & Spirits; and Lauber Imports, Somerville, NJ; tel. (908) 725-2100